Originally published July 2018. Updated September 2026 with current visitor information.
Sitting high above Varenna with Lake Como spread out beneath it, Castello di Vezio is one of those places where the journey turns out to be almost as memorable as the destination.
When I visited Castello di Vezio in 2018 with my late husband, Martin, we were staying in Calolziocorte and took the train to Lecco before changing for Varenna. From there, the plan was simple: find the footpath up to the castle. Except we couldn’t find it. Not for love nor money.
So instead we set off up the winding road towards Vezio and I’m still rather glad that we did.
As the road switched back up the hillside, Varenna slowly disappeared beneath us and the views across Lake Como became increasingly beautiful. Italian villas dotted the slopes, mountains framed the lake and early in the morning, the road was wonderfully peaceful.
It took us around half an hour to reach the castle.
And then came that view.
The views alone are worth the climb
Castello di Vezio occupies a spectacular position above Varenna, looking across the central part of Lake Como towards Bellagio and the surrounding mountains.
Even before you begin properly exploring the castle, the panorama is extraordinary.
If photography is your thing, I would still recommend arriving reasonably early. When we visited, the morning light across the lake was beautiful and we had plenty of room to wander and take photographs before more visitors arrived later in the day.
The castle’s official guide describes the view from the top of the tower as a full 360-degree panorama of Lake Como, and having stood up there myself, I’d struggle to argue with that description
The famous ghosts of Vezio
One of the strangest and most memorable features of the castle is its collection of white plaster figures scattered around the grounds.
When I first saw them, my immediate thought was:
Dementors.
Harry Potter fans will understand.
They’re actually known as the Ghosts of Vezio. During the summer, volunteers are covered in gauze and plaster and remain still while a mould is formed around them. The resulting ghostly sculptures are left around the castle grounds until winter weather eventually destroys them.
Against the backdrop of Lake Como they are simultaneously beautiful, peculiar and ever so slightly unsettling. Which obviously makes them fabulous to photograph.
Exploring the castle
There’s considerably more here than just a viewpoint.
You can explore the grounds and gardens, walk inside the castle walls and climb the stone steps and drawbridge into the central tower.
Inside you’ll find displays relating to the area’s medieval history as well as a permanent exhibition devoted to the Lariosaurus, an extinct aquatic reptile whose fossils have been discovered around Perledo and elsewhere in the region.
There are also Mediterranean gardens, olive trees, sculptures and plenty of little corners where it’s worth simply stopping for a moment and taking everything in.
For me, though, the highlight remained climbing the main tower. We stood at the top for a while, feeling the breeze and looking out across the lake and mountains.
Italy does have a habit of producing moments like that.
Walking to Castello di Vezio from Varenna
There is a proper pedestrian route, we simply failed spectacularly at finding it the first time.
The official route starts near Varenna-Esino railway station. From the station you walk towards the lake and the Montecodeno restaurant, where you’ll find the footpath leading uphill towards Vezio.
The castle advises allowing around 20–30 minutes for the climb. It is relatively short but quite steep, so sensible footwear is a good idea, particularly in hot weather.
We eventually found this route when walking back down. It’s cobbled, shaded in places and considerably more direct than the road we took up.
Would I change our route if I could do it again?
Probably not.
The longer road gave us some gorgeous views as Varenna unfolded below us and turned getting to the castle into part of the day rather than simply a means of reaching it.
Castello di Vezio visitor information for 2026
Admission:
Adult admission is currently €7.
Reduced admission is €4 for visitors aged 6–17, over-65s and qualifying groups. Children aged five and under are admitted free. Tickets can be purchased at the castle by cash or card, or online.
Opening:
The official castle website currently states that Castello di Vezio is open daily from 1 March until 1 December, with opening hours changing according to the month. Outside the main season it opens on selected fair-weather weekends and public holidays 10am – 5pm.
As of September 2026, the published hours are:
October & March: 10am–5pm
Saturday–Sunday: 10am–6pm
November: Monday to Sunday 10am – 5pm
April, May & September: Monday–Friday: 10am–6pm
Saturday–Sunday: 10am–7pm
June, July & August: Monday–Friday: 10am–7pm
Saturday–Sunday: 10am–8pm
Last admission is 20 minutes before closing. No advance reservation is normally required.
Because opening arrangements can change with season and weather, I would always check the official Castello di Vezio website shortly before travelling.
So, is Castello di Vezio worth visiting?
For me, absolutely.
You come for an old hilltop castle and end up remembering the walk through the hills, the strange white ghosts standing silently in the gardens and above everything else, that astonishing view across Lake Como.
If you’re spending time in Varenna, I’d make room for it. Just wear decent shoes.
And perhaps have slightly more success finding the footpath than we did.
