Boarding the train in Oslo for the seven-and-a-half-hour journey across Norway to Bergen was something we were truly excited about. A brief moment of confusion arose when the app informed us that we’d need to change trains (not what we had planned), but it turned out the train would take us all the way. We settled in, relaxed, and, of course, enjoyed a kanelboller, as a midday snack.
The landscapes we travelled through were almost surreal. From lush green forests with golden and red leaves, charming lodges nestled in nature, and lakes and waterfalls punctuating the journey, to dramatic, rocky, almost otherworldly terrain as we headed west. The temperature dropped sharply, and we were greeted by snow-covered mountains and the sounds of fellow passengers marvelling at the majestic views. If you can, try to secure a seat on the left-hand side of the train. While our view was still incredible, the left-hand side seemed to offer more expansive scenery.
We arrived in Bergen just after 7 pm and headed straight for our apartment, a half-hour walk from the train station. Crossing over the water to Damsgård, we were welcomed by the magical sight of the hillside glowing with twinkling lights from the houses—a truly enchanting introduction to the city.
After stocking up on essentials at KIWI supermarket, we spent the evening relaxing. Who knew that sitting on a train and watching the world go by could be so tiring?
Exploring Bergen in the Rain
We woke up to a very wet day, but it didn’t deter us—we came prepared. Equipped with walking trousers, waterproof (or at least showerproof) jackets, and big smiles, we set out to find Løvstien and the picturesque boardwalk I’d seen in countless photos. Despite the rain, the views over Bergen and the surrounding hills were lovely and well worth getting a little damp for!
From there, we zig-zagged our way down the steep streets in search of Norway’s longest bike tunnel, which connects Kristianborg to Fyllingsdalen. The 3 km tunnel was an easy walk and one of the coolest tunnels I’ve ever seen. It even featured a running lane with a springy surface—I couldn’t help wishing I’d brought my running shoes! Halfway through, there’s an open area adorned with artwork and a digital sundial, making it the perfect spot for a packed-lunch break. When we exited the tunnel, the heavens opened again, but we were determined to continue exploring, soaking in the sights of nature and the architecture and enjoying the fresh air on the slightly more circuitous route back.
After a day battling the elements, we peeled off our damp clothes, made coffee, and enjoyed a cosy evening with dinner and James Bond on the TV.
Rain, Coffee, and Street Art
Would you believe it? Saturday morning greeted us with more rain—not surprising, given Bergen’s reputation as one of Europe’s rainiest cities. Thankfully, the city offers plenty of cosy coffee spots. We found ourselves at Dromedar Café on Strandgaten. Despite the downpour, we snagged a spot by the window and enjoyed coffee and pastries. We couldn’t help but notice a buggy parked outside and joked about the baby possibly braving the weather. To our amazement, there was indeed a baby in it! Dad stepped out mid-coffee to check on them, seemingly unbothered by the rain.
As we wandered towards the harbour, we admired more of Bergen’s fantastic street art. It reminded me of my trip to Stavanger, where exquisite artistry adorned the city. We indulged in some touristy souvenir shopping, noting the abundance of troll-themed items. While trolls weren’t on our shopping list, we did find a fridge magnet to add to our collection.
For lunch, we stumbled upon Godt Brød on Vetrlidsallmenningen. The cosy café had a bustling but inviting atmosphere. We had hoped the weather might clear for a trip on the Fløibanen, but the thickening clouds persuaded us otherwise. Instead, we spent a leisurely afternoon at the stunning Frescohallen in the Bergen Børs Hotel. Part of the old Stock exchange its grand vaulted ceilings, columns, and historic artwork made it an extraordinary place to enjoy an Aperol sprizt.
Dinner that evening was at Olivia’s on Torget, a popular restaurant overlooking the harbour. Despite a queue, it was well worth the wait. We enjoyed delicious pizzas, not the most traditionally Norwegian fare, but undeniably tasty. Miraculously, the rain stopped while we dined, allowing for a lovely walk back to the apartment.
Final Day Highlights
On our last full day in Bergen, we set out to tick off some highlights. First, we visited Strangebakken, a picturesque cobbled street with traditional houses. Next was the Magic Ice Bar on C. Sundts Gate—a novelty experience complete with toasty ponchos, gloves, and cocktails served in ice glasses. The rock music and heavy metal-inspired ice sculptures added to the quirky vibe.
To warm up, we headed to Amundsen Bar & Bistro in the Grand Terminus Hotel. This historic venue hosted Roald Amundsen’s last press conference and boasts an impressive whisky collection. While tempting, we resisted sampling the whisky, as we had more plans for the day.
For dinner, we revisited Dirty Vegan, a favourite from Oslo. The BBQ stack and fries were as messy and delicious as ever—a fitting indulgence for our final night.
Fjord Farewell
Monday morning marked the end of our Bergen adventure. We watched the sunrise on our walk into the centre and stopped for coffee at Opus XVI, another spectacular building worth visiting.
Our trip ended on a high note with a Fjord Cruise Bergen – Mostraumen. The 3.5-hour journey through stunning fjords, surrounded by snow-capped mountains and cascading waterfalls, was unforgettable. The sun shone brilliantly, though the freezing temperatures meant most passengers enjoyed the views from inside the boat. At Modalen, we ventured onto the deck to marvel at a waterfall the boat nearly touched—a breathtaking experience etched into memory.
A final coffee and pastry at Backstube rounded off the trip before we retrieved our bags and took the tram to the airport, seamlessly wrapping up an unforgettable Norwegian adventure.
We crammed quite a bit into our Norway Adventure and loved every minute of it. Would I go back, most definitely, there is so much of Norway still to explore, but as a bit of a taster, it’s got me hooked.
